Why Keys Snap — and Why the Lock Type Changes Everything
Keys break for a handful of very consistent reasons: metal fatigue from years of heavy daily use, a worn key blank that was copied one too many times off a copy-of-a-copy, forcing a key that was already binding in a stiff cylinder, or simply the kind of cold-weather brittleness that New York winters reliably produce. The problem compounds when the lock itself is worn. A mortise lock — the rectangular, multi-component assembly found in the vast majority of New York City pre-war buildings and commercial storefronts — has a deeper, more complex keyway than a standard pin-tumbler cylinder. When a key snaps inside a mortise lock, the fragment can travel past the front plug and settle near the cam or tailpiece, making blind retrieval genuinely difficult without knowledge of that specific mechanism. Older mortise cylinders with loose tolerances sometimes grip a broken fragment tightly enough that even professional extraction tools require careful selection.
Door knob locks and deadbolts in newer residential buildings present their own variables. A Schlage or Kwikset pin-tumbler cylinder is generally shallower, but the keyway profile can trap a jagged broken tip in ways that resist the hook-style extractors many people picture when they imagine this job. Vehicle ignitions are yet another category — the ignition cylinder on most modern cars sits inside a steering column with limited access, and the wafer stack is oriented differently than a door lock. Our technicians are trained across all of these platforms, which is why we always ask about the lock type when you call (646) 736-2918, so the right tools are loaded in the van before we leave.
